Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
